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In some areas in China, especially in Yunnan Province, the Bai ethnic group has maintained the legend of the bandhnu craft for generations. The study and succession of this craft mainly takes place in the family unit, and has occurred predominantly between females. Starting from a very young age, girls unconsciously learn from what they constantly hear or see around them in daily practice, and it becomes a necessary skill. A woman’s level of craftsmanship in the Za Hua (tie and knot) craft has even become a criterion on which to judge her talent. In the making of dresses and other accessories, the bandhnu has become an integral part of local life.
Now the bandhnu crafts of the Bai regions in China have been listed on the first statelevel intangible cultural heritage list.
The usual bundhnu method starts with drawing the outline of the design on the cloth, followed by needling the cloth together to create the “flower” pattern by a variety of folding, bundling, pinching, twisting, stitching, winding, knotting, clipping etc, so that the cloth is tied in various shapes.
The Za Hua (tie and knot) processes require extraordinary patience and care. In order to convey different artistic effects, a piece of Za Hua cloth usually requires varied stitches, and its craftsmanship is very complicated and dizzying. Za Hua skills not only embody the wisdom of women but also celebrate their meticulous care and endeavour.
Bandhnu pigment is usually comprised of two kids of pigment, mineral and plant. Pine wool barrels are used as the containers for dyeing white fabric. Due to the uncertainty of the effect in ancient times, the dyers are peculiar about the date and timing of the process. They endeavour to choose a very auspicious day and sometimes even go to the temple and burn incense in prayer.
The process repeated soaking in the pigment solution. Due to the different density of the ties, the fabric absorbs the pigment at different intensity levels. For complex patterns this process can take days. The fabric needs to go through a high temperature cooking and dyeing process before it can be taken out of the barrel. After being rinsed and air cure dried, the stitches will be taken out of the fabric.
Cleaning over air cure drying has almost become a symbol of bandhnu family’s local custom. The blue and white folk weave fabrics, long and short big and small hung to and fro, drying from this dyeing process, has become a unique part of the local scenery.
Bandhnu products are rich in the variety of their patterns. The motif is always associated with the local preference of flowers and plants, animals, moons and stars. For example, the beautiful butterfly wings are bestowed with the wish for a better life while a full pomegranate implies more children in a family and refers to the prosperity of a family. As local life is mingled with the culture of the Han people, the emergence of some typical Han motifs have also appeared, such as the auspicious dragon and phoenix pattern, a symbol of happiness, and the Mandarin duck, a symbol of love
between couples and of happy family unity. Also, the symmetrical uniform Yin and Yang pattern embodies universal harmony. In the old days, the beautiful bandhnu patterns of flowers and birds were designated as tributary gifts to the imperial court.
